



The monthly Gault&Millau magazine was launched in 1969.
GAULT Henri and MILLAU Christian, The new Gault & Millau Guide, no. 54 from 01/10/1973, Paris, Julliard., quoted by Gil Galasso
Gil Galasso also alludes to the transformations of this art that were to have a major influence upon the presentation of dishes: "As of the XVIII century, carving has had to adapt to social change: At the end of the old regime, in France, it experienced its first major evolution with the introduction of Russian-style service and the glorifying of roasted meats, at the centre of the meal. An evolution that was soon followed by others, predominantly influenced by the nouvelle cuisine of Antonin Carême. "
See: CAREME, Marie-Antoine, Le Maître d’hôtel français, ou Parallèle de la cuisine ancienne et moderne (The French Head Waiter, or Parallel with ancient and modern cuisine), Paris, Fayot, 1822.
In their publication, Julia Csegro and Evelyne Cohen adopt the term artification to illustrate the evolution of gastronomy into a culinary art that is on a par with painting, sculpture and architecture:
"As a form of cultural production, throughout its history cuisine has been claimed to be a form of knowledge, a science, a tekhnè, a way of life as well as an ’aesthetic art‘ on a par with dedicated arts such as architecture, painting and music. (…) Progressing from the status of a ’servant‘ to that of an ’artist‘ who writes recipes and books, the chef has gradually obtained the status of the creator of an ephemeral artistic act who constitutes an exception, right through to becoming a ‘celebrity’.
A little further: "Culinary exhibitions inspired by models from the universal exhibition and the Salon des Beaux-Arts, which were held at the end of the XIX century during the period between the wars are examples of this. Commercial, artistic and philanthropic events played a role in the discussion of culinary ‘artification’, to the extent that the public presentation of the chefs' savoir-faire was an event in itself, confirming the status of the art of cuisine. These events also contributed towards the reflection that took place at the end of the XIX century regarding the status of the head chef: worker or artist? "
CSERGO Julia and COHEN Evelyne, "L’Artification du Culinaire", Société et représentations, no. 34, Paris, Publications de la Sorbonne, 2014.
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