Taillé aux greubons
A taillé aux greubons is a rectangular, golden,savoury pastry from Vaud. It was first created at the end of the 19th century and is made of puff pastry and greubons, pork fat residues. Since it was traditional to eat all parts of a pig, peasants used to also collect fat residues. This pastry nearly vanished from bakery shelves following the closure of the last lard melter in the canton of Vaud, but butchers then took over the manufacture of greubons.
Greubons, adored by peasants
Taillé aux greubons is first mentioned in recipe books of the late 19th century. In former times, peasants used all parts of the pig, to the point that they collected fat residues to make greubons. Peasants liked greubons so much that they would keep them to incorporate them into various recipes.
In the past, rural societies saw slaughtering pigs in autumn as a special occasion, alongside the harvest and grape-picking. The slaughter was a social event that encouraged villagers to come together and share tasks. All parts of the pig were eaten. Some were for immediate preparation, some were given to friends and family, and some were intended for the storehouse, for the salt pot and lard production. Lard was used as a fat in countries that did not manufacture large amounts of oil. It was particularly popular until the Renaissance, when butter became more widespread and gradually replaced it.
The recipe currently used for taillé aux greubons dates back to the 1940s, when the lard melter was invented by ACMV mechanical workshops in Vevey. The pork fat was vacuum melted to produce quite large greubons without a burnt taste.
Following the closure of the last major lard melter in the canton of Vaud, taillé aux greubons nearly vanished from bakery shelves in the 2000s. Butchers took over the manufacture of greubons, so they could supply them to bakers and keep the tradition alive. Although taillés once existed in both soft and crispy forms, it is the crispy type which prevails nowadays. Taillés aux greubons are made in other cantons of French-speaking Switzerland, but are considered to be a typical speciality of the Vaud region.
A regional appetiser at aperitif time
A taillé aux greubons is most often enjoyed at aperitif time, along with other pastries or wafers and served with white wine. It is one of the specialities of the carnotzets and cellars of Vaud.
In regional cuisine
Taillé aux greubons is a savoury pastry containing greubons, solidified melted pork fat during the lard production process. Lard is melted pork fat (from under the animal’s skin), which is used to prepare pastries and cooked meats, as well as for frying and cooking food. Nowadays it is mainly used in regional cuisines, particularly in Auvergne, Eastern France, Germany and Eastern Europe. Once stored in a jar, it lasts for months.
ECOMUSÉE DE LA BRESSE, 1996. Du lard et du cochon. Pierre-de-Bresse : Ecomusée de la Bresse.
JOYE, Pierre-Etienne, 2015. Le taillé aux greubons. Le Guillon, revue de vin vaudois. N° 46 1/2015, pp. 42-47.
PATRIMOINE CULINAIRE SUISSE. Taillé aux greubons (salé et sucré), Patrimoine culinaire suisse [en ligne]. [Consulté le 11 septembre 2015]. Disponible à l’adresse : http://www.patrimoineculinaire.ch
PATRIMOINE IMMATÉRIEL DU CANTON DE VAUD. Taillé aux greubons, Patrimoine immatériel du canton de Vaud [en ligne]. [Consulté le 11 septembre 2015]. Disponible à l’adresse : http://www.patrimoine.vd.ch, Consulté le 11.09.2015.
VITAUX, Jean et FRANCE, Benoît, Saindoux (dir.), 2008. Dictionnaire du gastronome. Paris : Presses universitaires de France, p. 824.